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Have You Ever Tried to Sell a Diamond? The diamond invention.
Until the late nineteenth century, diamonds were found only in a few riverbeds in India and in the jungles of Brazil, and the entire world production of gem diamonds amounted to a few pounds a year. In 1. 87. 0, however, huge diamond mines were discovered near the Orange River, in South Africa, where diamonds were soon being scooped out by the ton. Suddenly, the market was deluged with diamonds. The British financiers who had organized the South African mines quickly realized that their investment was endangered; diamonds had little intrinsic value. The financiers feared that when new mines were developed in South Africa, diamonds would become at best only semiprecious gems. The major investors in the diamond mines realized that they had no alternative but to merge their interests into a single entity that would be powerful enough to control production and perpetuate the illusion of scarcity of diamonds. The instrument they created, in 1.
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De Beers Consolidated Mines, Ltd., incorporated in South Africa. As De Beers took control of all aspects of the world diamond trade, it assumed many forms. In London, it operated under the innocuous name of the Diamond Trading Company. In Israel, it was known as . And in black Africa, it disguised its South African origins under subsidiaries with names like Diamond Development Corporation and Mining Services, Inc. At its height - - for most of this century - - it not only either directly owned or controlled all the diamond mines in southern Africa but also owned diamond trading companies in England, Portugal, Israel, Belgium, Holland, and Switzerland.
De Beers proved to be the most successful cartel arrangement in the annals of modern commerce. While other commodities, such as gold, silver, copper, rubber, and grains, fluctuated wildly in response to economic conditions, diamonds have continued, with few exceptions, to advance upward in price every year since the Depression. Indeed, the cartel seemed so superbly in control of prices - - and unassailable - - that, in the late 1. The diamond invention is far more than a monopoly for fixing diamond prices; it is a mechanism for converting tiny crystals of carbon into universally recognized tokens of wealth, power, and romance. To achieve this goal, De Beers had to control demand as well as supply.
Both women and men had to be made to perceive diamonds not as marketable precious stones but as an inseparable part of courtship and married life. To stabilize the market, De Beers had to endow these stones with a sentiment that would inhibit the public from ever reselling them. The illusion had to be created that diamonds were forever - - . Lauck, the president of N. Ayer, a leading advertising agency in. United States. Ayer had been recommended to Oppenheimer by. Morgan Bank, which had helped his father consolidate the De Beers financial.
His bankers were concerned about the price of diamonds, which had. In Europe, where diamond prices had collapsed during the Depression, there seemed little possibility of restoring public confidence in diamonds. In Germany, Austria, Italy, and Spain, the notion of giving a diamond ring to commemorate an engagement had never taken hold. In England and France, diamonds were still presumed to be jewels for aristocrats rather than the masses. Furthermore, Europe was on the verge of war, and there seemed little possibility of expanding diamond sales. This left the United States as the only real market for De Beers's diamonds. In fact, in 1. 93.
United States. Most of these stones, however, were smaller and of poorer quality than those bought in Europe, and had an average price of $8. Oppenheimer and the bankers believed that an advertising campaign could persuade Americans to buy more expensive diamonds. Oppenheimer suggested to Lauck that his agency prepare a plan for creating a new image for diamonds among Americans. He assured Lauck that De Beers had not called on any other American advertising agency with this proposal, and that if the plan met with his father's approval, N. Ayer would be the exclusive agents for the placement of newspaper and radio advertisements in the United States. Oppenheimer agreed to underwrite the costs of the research necessary for developing the campaign.
Lauck instantly accepted the offer. In their subsequent investigation of the American diamond market, the staff of N. Ayer found that since the end of World War I, in 1. America, measured in carats, had declined by 5.
An Ayer memo concluded that the depressed state of the market for diamonds was . Ayer. suggested that through a well- orchestrated advertising and public- relations. Movie idols, the paragons of romance for the mass audience, would be given diamonds to use as their symbols of indestructible love. In addition, the agency suggested offering stories and society photographs to selected magazines and newspapers which would reinforce the link between diamonds and romance. Stories would stress the size of diamonds that celebrities presented to their loved ones, and photographs would conspicuously show the glittering stone on the hand of a well- known woman. Fashion designers would talk on radio programs about the . The Ayer plan also envisioned using the British royal family to help foster the romantic allure of diamonds.
Ayer placed a series of lush four- color advertisements in magazines that were presumed to mold elite opinion, featuring reproductions of famous paintings by such artists as. Picasso, Derain, Dali, and Dufy.
The advertisements were intended to convey the idea that diamonds, like paintings, were unique works of art. By 1. 94. 1, The advertising agency reported to its client that it had already achieved impressive results in its campaign.
The sale of diamonds had increased by 5. United States since 1. Ayer noted also that its campaign had required . There was no direct sale to be made. There was no brand name to be impressed on the public mind. There was simply an idea - - the eternal emotional value surrounding the diamond.
Ayer outlined a subtle program that included. And it continued its efforts to encourage news coverage of celebrities displaying diamond rings as symbols of romantic involvement. In 1. 94. 7, the agency commissioned a series of portraits of .
The advertising agency explained, in its 1. Ayer copywriter came up with the caption .
Even though diamonds can in fact be shattered, chipped. Ayer found some resistance to its million- dollar publicity. It noted in its annual strategy review. The millions of brides and brides- to- be are subjected to at least two important pressures that work against the diamond engagement ring. Among the more prosperous, there is the sophisticated urge to be different as a means of being smart.. To remedy these problems, the advertising agency argued, .
Ayer was always searching for new ways to influence American public. Not only did it organize a service to . It also established a . Ayer commented in a memorandum to De Beers, and added: . Ayer proposed to apply to the diamond market Thorstein Veblen's idea. The Theory of the Leisure Class, that Americans were motivated in their purchases not by utility but by . Ayer. said in a report.
To exploit this desire for conspicuous display, the agency. Ayer reported to De Beers that twenty years of advertisements and publicity had had a pronounced effect on the American psyche. The campaign to internationalize the diamond invention began in earnest in the mid- 1. The prime targets were Japan, Germany, and Brazil.
Ayer. was primarily an American advertising agency, De Beers brought in the J. Walter. Thompson agency, which had especially strong advertising subsidiaries in the. Within ten. years, De Beers succeeded beyond even its most optimistic expectations. Japan, where matrimonial. American occupation.
Until the mid- 1. Japanese parents arranged marriages for their children.
The ceremony was consummated, according to. Shinto law, by the bride and groom drinking rice wine from the same wooden. There was no tradition of romance, courtship, seduction, or prenuptial. Japan; and none that required the gift of a diamond engagement ring. Walter Thompson began its campaign by suggesting that diamonds were a. Western values. It created a series of color.
Japanese magazines showing beautiful women displaying their. All the women had Western facial features and wore European. Moreover, the women in most of the advertisements were involved in. Japanese traditions. In the background, there. Japanese man, also attired in fashionable European clothes. In. addition, almost all of the automobiles, sporting equipment, and other.
The message was clear: diamonds represent a sharp break with the Oriental past and a sign of. The campaign was remarkably successful.
Until. 19. 59, the importation of. Japanese government. When the campaign began, in 1. Japanese women. received a diamond engagement ring.
By 1. 97. 2, the proportion had risen to 2. By 1. 97. 8, half of all Japanese women who were married wore a diamond. Japanese brides wore diamonds. In a mere fourteen years, the 1,5. Japanese tradition had been radically revised.
Diamonds. became a staple of the Japanese marriage. Japan became the second largest. United States, for the sale of diamond engagement rings. In America, which remained the most important market for most of De Beer's. N. Ayer recognized the need to create a new demand for diamonds among long- married couples. Ayer said in a report.
An advertising campaign could. The diamond market had to be further restructured in the mid- 1. De Beers undertook to market for the Soviets.
They had discovered diamond mines in Siberia, after intensive exploration, in the late 1. De Beers and its allies no longer controlled the diamond supply, and realized that open competition with the Soviets would inevitably lead, as Harry Oppenheimer gingerly put it, to . Oppenheimer, assuming that neither party could afford risking the destruction of the diamond invention, offered the Soviets a.
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